Parisian Food

I have to make an admission that those of you know me need not read. I am a picky eater. Really picky. Strain my plain  spaghetti sauce because even the little pieces of onion are considered “too chunky” picky. I don’t eat any kind of seafood because fish grosses me out. (same for Garbanzo beans) I don’t eat any kind of peanuts but I will eat smooth peanut butter. I cut every visible bit of fat off my skinless, boneless chicken breasts, and cut out anything else that looks suspicious.

So it will be no surprise that I wasn’t bowled over by the food in France. When I first arrived, I ate Croque Monsieur and omelets for days, despite the fact that I am not a huge fan of ham. I will say that from what I tasted, ham in France is much better than ham in the United States. But after a few days I got tired of it. Bacon is different there too, so I didn’t eat any bacon at all for the 45 days I was there. Now I know how Jesus felt in the desert. (Kidding!)

I never tried escargot, frog legs, nicoise salad, duck, a l’orange or otherwise, fois gras, quenelle, or ratatouille. I did eat plenty of pain au chocolat. In fact, I am a connoisseur of pain au chocolat. I also ate plenty of baguettes, and I totally understand how one can walk 4 or more blocks out of their way to buy a stick of bread at a certain bakery, despite walking by hundreds of other sticks of bread on the way. Towards the end of my trip, I was eating cheese, baguettes, chocolate, and grapes almost exclusively. Washed down with cheap wine. I tried buying relatively expensive (to me) wines but the difference in taste wasn’t worth the expense. I’m pretty easy to please regarding wine. If it’s white, there a 99.5% chance I’ll like it. I tried to eat a variety of cheeses, but kept going back to the same ones, Cantal, Emmental, Parmesan, and Mozzarella.

Here are some pictures of things I ate, as well as many of the foods on display, some of which I ate too, especially the pastries.

First up, street food, which runs right into pastries because WordPress is not cooperating with me:

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Waffle with Nutella. Ok, but too bland after a while.

Waffle with Nutella. Ok, but too bland after a while.

I did not eat this but it seems to be a staple at every crepe stand

I did not eat this but it seems to be a staple at every crepe stand

Some Vanilla thing I ordered to cut the richness of the hot chocolate at Angelina. Not worth the money.

Some Vanilla thing I ordered to cut the richness of the hot chocolate at Angelina. Not worth the money.
Tiny shop on rue Dauphine

Tiny shop on rue Dauphine

Cheesecake from Bread and Roses, rue Madame. Best I had

Cheesecake from Bread and Roses, rue Madame. Best I had

Pierre Herme

Pierre Herme

Trois chocolat at 2 rue de la Verrerie

Trois chocolat at 2 rue de la Verrerie

Restaurant meals:

Cheeseburger from Le Pause Beaubourg, Marais

Cheeseburger from Le Pause Beaubourg, Marais

One of my favorites, but it's Italian so I guess it doesn't count

One of my favorites, but it’s Italian so I guess it doesn’t count

Croque Monsieur

Croque Monsieur

Ham egg and cheese omelette

Ham egg and cheese omelette

The classic croissant

The classic croissant

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Pear Nutella Crumble from Cafe Pre aux Clercs

Pear Nutella Crumble from Cafe Pre aux Clercs

Creme brulee from Cafe Pre aux Clercs

Creme brulee from Cafe Pre aux Clercs

My usual picnic fare:

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I have to mention the wine. It accompanied almost every lunch and dinner, and many times was the only thing I ordered.

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No wonder I came home 14 pounds heavier than when I left. I’m surprised the airline didn’t charge me extra baggage fees!

Dijon, France Day Trip

I’ve been behind because I had a friend come to stay, and even though she left yesterday, I’m at a loss for words. Maybe we talked too much this past weekend!

In Dijon, for €3.50 you can get a self guided Owl Trail tour. There is a book that describes every point of interest, as well as little brass owls on the street to keep you on the trail. I asked if the book was for kids, but was told no. It looks kind of dumbed down though.

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Most of these pictures are of the architecture of the streets of Dijon.

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Their Notre Dame

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Their lucky Owl that should be rubbed with your left hand for good luck

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My view from Marco Polo where I ate lunch

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And my dessert

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By the way, don’t expect anyone except the Tourist Office employees to speak English here.

Super duper creepy mannequins in the Museum of Burgundian Life. I swear I kept thinking they were moving.

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More street scenes

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ImageImageImageSome employees on a break.

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I had to cancel my upcoming trip to Amboise as the train station is still damaged, but I will still visit Mont St Michel and possibly Bruges.

No Bubbly For Me in Reims

Today was my train ride to Reims/Epernay. The train to Reims was much nicer than any train I’ve been on so far. The day started kind of blech, with cold temps and a dull grey sky. I hopped off the train at 8:44AM. It’s too early for champagne so I went to the travel center outside the station to get a map, then I was pulled by an unknown force down a small alley and found this restaurant. I would have come back for lunch but the menu, strangely enough, was all burritos, quesadillas, enchiladas, and tacos. Fitting, I guess, since it reminds me so much of Old Town San Diego.

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On to the Reims Cathedral. When the townspeople started building this cathedral, they knew they would never see it completed, they could only hope it would be finished in their grandchildren’s lifetimes. I can’t imagine anyone starting a project like that today, that wouldn’t see completion in their lifetime. I was inside taking pictures and acting like a tourist, I heard a tone, then beautiful singing. There was a group of maybe 20 people, also tourists, standing in the center of the main aisle singing. It was beautiful. I started to record it, but soon had to shut off the camera, and I just sat at the base of a column and let some tears leak out. It wasn’t so much a religious experience as one of beauty. The singers stopped and became tourists again, walking around snapping photos. I loved the window just above the door

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DSCN2031The Marc Chagall windows at the back of the church.

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The ceiling

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The rose window, which is the original glass from 1255, although it was removed during WWI to save it.

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Some windows that were damaged in the war were replaced by the champagne makers in the area, and show harvesting scenes.

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This is actually a historically important cathedral, as most of the kings of France were crowned here after 1027. Joan of Arc famously led Charles VII here. Almost forgot, here are some pics of the outside.

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Beside the church and about a block away is a library donated by one of my favorite Scotsmen, Andrew Carnegie.

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Beautiful Art Deco.

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Chandelier.

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Now I have never seen such a huge card catalog, nor such a pretty one.

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Now that some morning has gone by, I decided to sip some champagne. Unfortunately the travel center in front of the cathedral was so busy that by the time they made my reservation, left me standing at the counter waiting to pay, while an intern said she couldn’t do anything, watching her colleague run all around yelling at people, I finally told them I thought there wasn’t any more time for me to get to the champagne house. The woman apologized profusely, saying she has been trying to get help all morning, but…I have a train to catch and taking the next tour is cutting it too close. By now I’m hungry so I walked to the main drag with all the restaurants and decided on an Italian place I saw earlier. I couldn’t help it, they had a gorgonzola pasta and I couldn’t resist.

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After I ate, I walked to the Museum of the Surrender, to see the actual room where the Germans signed the surrender papers to begin the end of WWII. Apparently there’s a ticker tape of the news, and the walls still have maps with troop positions. Unfortunately I didn’t notice that it closes from 12-2 so I could only photograph the building. 😦

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On the way back I swung by the Porte de Mars, a Roman gate from the 2nd century. The. Second. Century! Sorry, but as a history geek, this stuff really thrills me. It was one of 4 gates into the city and the only one left standing after WWI. You can see the different levels of construction by the deterioration of the columns.

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My time in Reims was strange. Usually I am a planner, but being on an extended journey (56 days), it can become all planning and no doing if I’m not careful. This was the closest trip to the city and I had had the itch to travel for a while so I planned it last minute and didn’t have time to obsess over schedules and such. 🙂 I think I paid the price, not getting to do 2 of the 3 things I wanted to do there, but I did see enough to know that I am not interested in going back. Here are some random shots I took around the city.

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Epernay is another story, and another blog post. It’s 12:30PM already and I don’t want to stay inside all day writing.

Normandy D Day Beaches Tour Part 2

There was a point I wanted to make in my last post that I forgot. From Pointe du Hoc we could see the location of one of the battles of the American Civil War, in which the Alabama was sunk. Also, inland from Omaha Beach is Formigny, where the last battle of the 100 Years War was fought. It’s funny how history not only repeats itself, but sometimes in the same places.

We left Pointe du Hoc and drove through pretty Norman landscape.

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While in America, it’s baseball, hot dogs and apple pie, in Normandy it’s cows, apple trees, and hedgerows. I always pictured hedgerows as rows of shrubs, but I found that hedgerows are berms at least three feet high with tall trees planted on them in long rows. Every 10 years the branches are cut for firewood, and every 100 years the trees are harvested for lumber. Normandy was covered with hedgerows so each little field had to be won. Tanks could not go through hedgerows without exposing their undercarriage and making them vulnerable. 70% of the hedgerows have been removed since World War II so here’s a picture of one from Flickr since the ones I took in the rain are bad.

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On the way, our docent told us some of the background of D-Day, that there were only 3 days per month that the landing could occur because the Allies needed a good moon, a low tide rising at dawn, and of course good weather. These three things were supposed to occur on June 5, 6, and 7 of 1944. D-Day, or Operation Overlord was set for June 5th, but bad weather looked as if it would scrap the whole operation. Then a report came in that there would be a brief break in the bad weather, and because of where the break was coming from, the Germans were not aware of this small bit of good weather. General Rommel went home to see his wife for her birthday, and the other German generals went a few hours away to go over strategy and play war games. I won’t go into detail about it all, but it was an intricate, detailed, and complex operation. There were engineering teams, wire cutting teams, bazooka teams, flamethrower teams…on and on. To hear the plan, and find out what went wrong while being in the area it took place, I was amazed that the whole operation wasn’t aborted. And it almost was. We stopped at Omaha Beach, where unfortunately you can buy an ice cream or a crepe or any number of tacky souvenirs from little shops across the street. I didn’t take pictures of these, I turned my back to them and concentrated on the beach and the monument.

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I didn’t realize until I got home that this monument is specifically dedicated to the Americans who liberated France. When I saw all the flags of all the countries who fought on the Allied side, I assumed the monument was dedicated to all of them. I’m almost happy that I didn’t know, because I got goosebumps just reading it so being there, I may have embarrassed myself and cried or something. 🙂

My daughter and I walked to the water to get a feel for just how far these men had to trudge across the beach.

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Of course we weren’t wet, weighed down with 80 pounds of supplies, dodging bullets, grenades, or running through an obstacle course of barbed wire, land mines,  etc, but I’ll tell you it was a wide each and a long walk. I rolled up my pants and walked into the water, I guess as a tribute or for solidarity.

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Our next stop was the American Cemetery and Memorial. No pictures I have ever seen had prepared me for the scope of this hallowed place. Unless taken from the air, there is no way to get every grave in a photo. There are so many….they just go on and on…and on some more. There are 9387 headstones. 45 sets of brothers. 4 women. 3 Medal of Honor recipients. 1 father and son. And we’re not even done. There is a Garden of the Missing with a 360 degree wall containing the names of 1557 more missing in action. The men are buried, not by rank, or division, or by any other means except as they came. One whole unit of brothers, comrades in arms, together as a whole without any distinction. Even the unknowns are buried with the identified.

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Our docent was very respectful and basically just slowly led us through, silently raising his arm as we came to each new set of headstones, sweeping his arm to show us each new section. We were given time to wander and look for specific graves if we wished. My daughter and I didn’t have anyone specific to look for so we separated and when we came together again, found that we had each picked a random man to honor. She placed a beautiful shell she had found on the beach atop one headstone, and I had placed my hand on another and whispered thank you.

Fron certain angles, it looks as though the headstones roll gently into the sea.

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We were then gathered at one point and our docent showed us the exact spot where the first soldier climbed to the top.

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I was no longer taking notes so I have forgotten his name. I’m sure it’s well documented elsewhere. This land has been donated in perpetuity to the American people. The number of graves is not representative of the D Day casualties. Some men were sent home to be buried, some men and women killed after D Day are here. Before we left, our docent took us to see the headstone of Elizabeth Richardson, the American Red Cross worker known as the Doughnut Lady. The doughnuts were a cover, her real mission was to give the men someone to talk to. She helped thousands of soldiers unburden themselves before she herself was killed in an accident.

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Our docent also took us to the memorial and talked a little about the invasion, the plan, and the end of the war, using the huge maps contained in the memorial to demonstrate.

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The stones on the floor of the memorial are from Omaha Beach.

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The ceiling looks familiar…

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The “Spirit of American Youth Rising From The Waves” sculpture was created by a New Jersey artist.

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It is important to remember that this cemetery is only one of 18 American graveyards on foreign soil. This is the biggest attraction in the area, and schoolchildren come here and to all the sites along this stretch from all over France.

After leaving here we went up into the hills of Les Bains to an overlook from which we could see the remnants of Mulberry Harbor. It is hard to imagine from here that these remnants are three stories high.

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Our last stop was the German battery at Longues sur Mer. Here the land has been filled in and while it should be compelling because the actual guns are still here, I felt disconnected, and it was more museum-ish in feel than Pointe du Hoc.

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This battery is surrounded by fields of poppies, and you will be happy that my camera died just then. 🙂

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Actually my camera told me it was “exhausted” which always cracks me up a little, as if it is accusing me of overuse.

This tour was amazing, and I recommend Context Travel to anyone, as this is my second tour with them and their docents are personable as well as extremely knowledgable. The only drawback to being on a tour like this is not being able to see other points of interest not on the schedule. I knew that there was little chance of seeing the somber German cemetery located here, especially since someone ::cough:: caused the tour to be delayed, but at lunch I also learned that William the Conqueror’s Memorial was here, and as we drove home, we drove right past the building that contained the Bayeux Tapestries, and our driver, remembering my comment at lunch, also pointed out the exit to Memorial du Guillaume Le Conqueror to me. I hated to see our van pass right by without stopping. Only a 2 hour train ride from Paris, then another half hour drive, I could easily go back.

It was a long day, but worth it in so many ways. Thanks for coming along.