A Walk Through the 5th After Dark

Another post full of pictures. Maybe it’s the heat, but I don’t have much energy to write. I took a walk tonight to enjoy the breeze, started walking parts of the city I had never been in but ended up in familiar territory. The heat of the day combined with the wonderful breeze brought a lot of people out to party on the banks of the Seine tonight.

The Senate

DSCN2970

Pantheon (undergoing improvements)

DSCN2972

This bar….

DSCN2980

Has an excellent location. The Pantheon to the right

DSCN2977

Notre Dame to the left

DSCN2978

Side entrance to St Etienne du Mont. *Correction. This church is not Saint Genvieve, as originally posted. It is located on Montagne Saint Genvieve, so I thought it was the name of the church. This is also, I found out quite by subconscious prompting, the same steps that were used in the movie Midnight In Paris. Just after I took this picture, I wondered where those steps were and decided to Google when I got home. Apparently my subconscious mind already knew what my conscious mind needed Google to confirm!*

DSCN2975

Front of Saint Etienne du Mont

DSCN2974

Walking towards the Seine

DSCN2984 DSCN3006

and Notre Dame

DSCN2994 DSCN2997

Advertisements

I Still Don’t Like Montmartre

First, let me say this was not that title of the blog I had planned today. It was supposed to be titled When Bloggers Collide and was going to be about meeting Liberated Traveler. However, she had to cut short her adventures due to a family emergency so please send some good thoughts her way.

I did part of another Rick Steves walk today, starting at #16 in his Montmartre walk, the Moulin de la Galette. As for what happened to numbers 1-15? I saw Sacre Coeur and St Pierre-de-Montmartre (#’s 2 & 3) already on my first attempt at this walk, which was abandoned after my experiences with the “artists” and other colorful characters found at Sacre Coeur near sunset. Many of the other list items are things to look at, and for me not worth all the walking involved. I took the Metro to Lamarck-Caulincourt, made popular by the movie Amelie, but I didn’t enter the famous entrance, I exited an apparently random and unknown exit. I had read about the stairs at the Abbesses Metro stop and been warned to take the elevator, but I didn’t realize this stop had enough stairs to qualify for a warning too. Never fear, there were signs.

DSCN2342

I ignored the elevator as it was full and the sign above said it was about to Depart, when a brave woman barreled past me and leaped through the closing doors and forced them to re-open. As I was already staring at the doors I could see the aggrieved faces of the occupants so I didn’t want to further distress them by again forcing the doors open. (But I did take note for future reference. I had the impression that Parisian doors, like Parisian shopkeepers, have no patience for tourists, and would continue to slam shut on me. Nice to know this may not happen) I walked up some stairs, then walked down a long hallway, and just in case I had forgotten the previous warning about the stairs, the step count was adjusted and new signs warned me that I had more steps in my future.

DSCN2343

I walked blinking like a newborn onto the street and tried to orient myself. I think it only took 10 minutes and half a mile of walking, so I’m improving! Rue Lepic is very windy (that’s wine-dy, not windy as in blowing wind) so if you happen to be taking this walk and you see this guy

DSCN2345

You’ve gone too far. Back up, make a right, and at the next intersection you will find that you have snuck up on the Moulin de la Galette from behind. So if you’re facing the Moulin de la Galette, and want to see that guy, you have to turn right, go up the hill, and he will be on your right.

DSCN2349

Ok, so I saw it. Not much else to say. Continuing, down the wine-dy road, here’s a view down a side street,

DSCN2355

and I saw Henri de Toulose-Lautrec’s house from a distance. Apologies to fans of his but I did not feel it worth the 100 yard detour to look at his exterior windows. I continued on and spotted Vincent Van Gogh’s apartment.

DSCN2360 DSCN2361 DSCN2362

Apparently in the 2 years he lived here, on the top floor with a view of the city (I’ll have to take Rick Steves word for it because I couldn’t get up to the apartment or the roof and verify), his painting changed. From the Van Gogh Museum website: “Van Gogh’s Paris work is an effort to assimilate the influences around him. As he begins to formulate his own artistic idiom, he progresses through the styles and subjects of the Impressionists. His palette becomes brighter, his brushwork more broken. Like the Impressionists, Van Gogh takes his subjects from the city’s cafés and boulevards, and the open countryside along the Seine River.”

Down the street some more is another Amelie movie locale, Cafe des Deux Moulins. (I really wish I had re-watched this movie before coming here because I barely remember it)

DSCN2363

And finally, at the Place Blanche, Moulin Rouge.

DSCN2366 DSCN2367

I guess it looks better at night. Not that I’ll ever step foot in Montmartre at night without a bodyguard. I peeked in the Museum of Erotic Art, which I was surprised to find is less intimidating than Modern Art. Did you know that Degas drew erotic art? I didn’t.

DSCN2379

There’s nothing really bad about Montmartre during the day. I just don’t see the appeal. I’ll stick to my favorite neighborhood, the 6th. I only explored maybe a block of Pigalle as my plans required me to go back the other way past Moulin Rouge again and take a long walk to rue de Rivoli where an Aldo store is located. I am searching for ballet flats to replace the ones I bought at Aldo years ago, but I can’t seem to find any. I could have taken the Metro but I wanted to walk, and I also found myself in front of Printemps, so I went in and poked around, sprayed perfume on myself, looked at lots of pretty stuff….yeah, I’m done. I’ll save shopping for next week when my friend is here.

I was on my way to Notre Dame to do the tower tour, but it’s a really hot day and I am already feeling a little in need of a shower, so I didn’t want to make it worse or offend any fellow tourists on the hot walk up all those stairs to the tower, so another day!

I also saw today that French women wear crocs!

DSCN2357